Yangzi River, etc. Xishuangbanna, Yunnan, China. Nov. 11, 2004

Mighty Yangzi River -- with the 6300 km the third longest in the world -- flows through 9 provinces of China and empties into the sea near Shanghai. On its way its name is changed several times ( the longest strech is Chang Jiang ), but never is called Yangzi Jiang. So from where the Westerns took this Chinese sounding name I do not know.
In 1990 when I was going to Lhasa, Tibet I remember passing a small settlement with a long Chinese name meaning "The First Bridge Over Yangzi River". It was a rather narrow stream there.
But in Yunnan this already a very substantial creek goes through "The First Bend of Yangzi River" and soon enters Hutiao Xia ( Tiger Leaping Gorge) about 16 km long -- one of the deepest gorges in the world -- about 3.900 m from the water lavel to the surrounding mountain tops. The gorge has taken its name after once a tiger leaped form one side to another.
Now I have to make a confession --and i hope you will keep it secret like a catholic priest-confessor does. Your acquaintance Leo - the Lion (Shizi in Chinese), who boasts and brags about his exploits, turned out to be a coward. He did not dare to jump over the turbulent waters. So the gorge still bears the old name.

However in the center of the ancient town of Lijiang there rises a mountain named after your friend -- Shizi Shan (Leo's Hill). It has been made into a beautiful park. On its very top a tall five storeys pagoda is erected using 4 huge columns made os single tree trunks -- the tallest in China. I do not understand only why they call this tower Wanggu Lou (Looking at the Past Pavilion). Your obedient servant Shizi is always looking into the future!

Mountain song. November 1, 2004

Erenhot - Hohhot - Dongsheng (Nei Mongol) - Yinchuan -Zhongwei - Shapotou - Xumi Shan Grottoes (Ninxia) - Pingliang - Kongtong Shan - Tianshui - Maiji Shan - Lanzhou - Bingling Si (Gansu) - Xining - Qinghai Lu - Taer Si (Qinghai) - Lanzhou - Linxia (Gansu) - Mengda Tian Chi - Xunhua - Tongren (Qinghai) - Xiahe - Hezuo - Langmusi (Gansu) - Zoige - Songpan - Jiuzhaigou - Dujiangyan - Qingchng Shan - Chengdu - Moxi - Hailuogou Glacier Park - Kangding - Litang - Xiangcheng (Sichuan) - Zhongdian - Lijiang (Yunnan).
This is so far my itinerary since I reentered China on September 21, 2004. Vast majority of my movements (especially after Lanzhou) took place in remote sparcely populated with Tibetans mountainous regions. The roads are generally in reasonably good condition, but the terrain allows only slow speed .
The views are superb, the landscapes just overwhelm you.

Oh, the Nature is divine --
Rain or shine -- it enchants you like the wine,
Hightens feelings and sensations,
Brings about inspiration
And poetic mood creation!

In the last 3 passing weeks
Often I became too weak.
Yes, the mountain passes glitter
At above 4,000 meters --
And it makes you often sway,
As the bare scenery
And the air thinnery
Take your breath away.

Then you're looking down the slope
Which is nicely enveloped
By the spacious green fur
Of the hemlock, spruce and the fir.

And below in gorgeous gorges
Crystal water falls and surges --
And the clear mountain stream
Looks like covered with the cream,
As it roams with the foams
Through the rapids -- oh, intrepids! --
Through the scenery supreme.

And the boulders on the shoulders
Like the soldiers on duty
Watch the beauty!

Yes, this beautiful high road
Took away my heavy load
Bringing back the normal mode.
It's the dangerous switchbacks
Switched me back to humble prose --
I suppose.

Yes, I passed several passes above 4,00 m with the peaks 6,000 m plus towering above the road.
But it's cold. It looks like I have chosen to be frozen. So I escaped to lower elevations -- and soon will be in the tropics.
But I better change the topic, as there is another threat of poetry.

Best wishes from Yunnan!
Your Leo